2.2.11 Punta Arenas Patagonia Estancia, Media Luna, Men and Masks, and ship to shore
Dresses 31, 32, 33, 34
Punta Arenas
Punta Arenas (Sandy Point) Chile it is the most southerly city on the South America mainland. It enjoyed wealth and growth up to 1914 when the Panama Canal opened, after which its strategic location for trade and access came to an abrupt end. During the 1940’s oil was discovered nearby and so it’s again enjoying commercial strength. The population is predominately immigrants and 60% can trace back to Eastern Europe and Slovenia in particular.
We arrived here after following the coast at a safe distance through the Magellan straits. We have seen scattered islands, deep fiords, Glaciers, beech forests snow topped mountains. Despite seeing the maps before we came I could not imagine the sensation of slowly sailing through mile after mile of islands on both sides of the ship. Some are very tiny and the vegetation comes right down to the sea level. Others are sheer rock, and others have glaciers gently rolling down toward the sea. At the beginning of our journey through this area each Glacier was named after a country, we will see more glaciers over the coming days. Our Captain is clearly an enthusiast as he is explaining all the features as we pass by.
Glacier Italy
We decided to visit an estancia whist in this part of Patagonia (– bye the bye Patagonia means land of the people with big feet) this was a real treat as although tourism is a growing business here the main industry is sheep farming. We spent a day at the Olga Teresa Estancia, so named after the daughters of the original owner. In this area all estancias are named after girls and this one was founded by the owners father in 1932, Dress 31 is worn by Yvonne the current owner and granddaughter of the original owner she is wearing her branded Fleece and was our host and guide for the day, beautiful and articulate her enthusiasm and pride in the estancia made the day most memorable.
Dress 31
She, her husband, 4 children, 7 grandchildren and various friends would be looking after us throughout the visit she advised us. She and her husband have been running the estancia for 42 years. Our group were treated to home grown open roasted lamb, pisco sours, local wine and empanadas (bit like a Cornish pasty) the weather was glorious for a Patagonian High summer – 12 degrees but bright bright sunshine – we were wearing SF40.
David enjoying the Barbeque
The Chile national sports are football and the Rodeo which takes place in a Media Luna. Yvonne’s sons Christian and Alfonso are national champions and they gave us a demonstration of their skills. The small and very tough horses they ride are most impressive for their agility and control. Annually 80,000 horsemen (in pairs) start to compete for the national Championships and her sons have won at the Media Luna in Santiago. We were very fortunate to see such skilled horsemanship. Dress 32 is the two brothers in the traditional hats, boots, spurs, and mantels worn when working and competing.
Dress 32 Christian and Alfonso
Media Luna
How interesting that in two days we have heard these words used to describe things which we know by other names. Yesterday it was a croissant today it’s a rodeo enclosure. In both cases it is a good description – half moon.
Masks and Men
These lands have only been settled by Europeans for about 150 years (although Ferdinand Magellan first saw the lands in 1520) in Patagonia there were 4 main tribes Onas, Yahagans Hause and Aacaluf. I’m not sure who had the big feet but the guys in Dress No 33, are in their tribal dress – body paint. They also wore masks about 600mm high painted as they decorated their bodies so we now have one for our ‘Africa’ room in Spain.
Dress 33
Tenders Ship to Shore
To get ashore in some of the places we visit we have to use a ‘tender’ this is because Aurora is too large to get into the local port. A tender is a small boat. In the Falklands this was quite an experience as you have to get off one rocking ship onto another rocking smaller ship and definitely have to ‘mind the gap’ We were in a tender port again her in Punta Arenas and Dress 34 is our handsome junior officer Paneer who is one of many crew who ensure all goes well
Dress 34
The sun rises at 6.45 and sets about 9.45 but it’s more or less light until 11.30pm
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