around the world in eighty dresses: 21.2.11 Pago Pago and dresses to 61

21.2.11 Pago Pago & Dress to 61

We arrived at the deep harbour of Pago Pago on the tiny island of Tutuila in America Samoa in brilliant sunshine only to be running for cover as the heavy tropical rain thundered down on the decks, within a few minutes the same decks were steaming as the sun quickly dried them.

The island is 14 degrees south of the equator and so we have about 12 to 14 hours daylight,

it is well within the tropics, everywhere is a lush green, with gorgeous exotic plants, ginger plants and trees.

Samoan Shopping

Tahiti was exotic with a French twist, but these people have got it all, a riot of colours, disco music booming out, dancing round the little stalls and all a fraction of the price. We had the best of times meeting these very commercial ladies many of whom were sitting producing handmade things when not serving. Every lady sold us something and they are holding some of the items we bought. We enjoyed our time here so much, it was national holiday there was a real family party atmosphere. Their dresses are those they wear all the time, all the ladies were very modest, no coconuts tops here.

Dresses 54, 55, 56 Ladies of the craft market

Polynesian empire

I have to admit that until we started on this trip I know very little what had been the Polynesian empire, and all the island groupings within it. By about 1000AD the empire extended in a triangle with Hawaii in the north New Zealand in the south and Easter Island to the south east. When you think that the Pacific Ocean covers over a third of the earth’s surface and look at the distance between these islands it is even more remarkable that this vast area was under the control of one people.

We have read all the guide books that we have with us and are hungry for more information, the names of the islands we have sailed past are so exotic and familiar and it’s a real thrill to hear the bridge advise us to ‘come up on deck and see.. The Fiji islands, Tonga, Gambier Islands……….

Pago Pago

Back to Pago Pago this is the name of the capital and port, but it’s pronounced paNgo paNgo. This is because when the missionaries arrived and printed the first ever book in the pacific islands they did not have a N in their printing kit. This may sound strange but we are assured it is absolutely true and the cognoscenti always pronounce it with a N.

The island was seceded to America in 1872. The island is an intriguing mix of very exotic, very modest, extremely jolly and friendly people. They wear long LayaLaya (like a pareo) and we were advised to dress modestly no short shorts, don’t stretch your feed out in front of you when sitting down and no eating in the street.

Christianity and Samoa Culture

Sunday is strictly observed, they bury their dead in their gardens so they are near to the family, which seems a bit strange. But when we saw the mini graveyards and headstones all neatly tended with flowers and wreaths some with little roofs over it we could see that they truly believe their departed are still there with them. During our all too brief visit there appears a balance between traditional culture and Christianity.

They live in extended family groups with a guest or first house in each settlement, which is used for ceremonies, receiving guests, and sleeping in when the weather is too hot. We were treated to a formal ceremony and dances. We were invited to try the local kava (non-alcoholic traditional drink) which is apparently good for everything from aching joints, to lowering cholesterol.

Dress 57 lead dancers - Mallory - the dress is made of tapa cloth and dress 58 Cathie in traditional layalaya

Me with some of the dancers,

Traditional transport

This bus says it all about this island, the buses have no windows or doors and are real bone shakers, but they decorate them with fresh flowers and insist, absolutely insist, that you sing along is Samoan, British reserve was just not acceptable as we bounced and bumped along the roads.

Samoan Tour Guides

They are irresistible with their charm and joy. On our little bus we had two and two trainees. Quite how we all fitted in to the little bus I’m not sure but we did and it was a great day. The two main guides were Tila Dress 59 and Tommy. Tommy is here with the trainees and the shy little trainees, Marion has the most incredible hair and is dress 60

Dress 59 Tila

Dress 60 Tommy and the Trainees

American influence

Big four wheel cars everywhere, the island is has very steep hills and very large people so these America vehicles are popular.

David with car

The only Golf course in Samoa and lunchtime disco

For some reason we ended up at the golf course and there was the equivalent of a very noisy disco great fun, the Samoan men scream somewhat disconcertingly throughout and the ladies sway elegantly, the men then throw themselves on the floor and if the lady is interested she puts her foot on his back. Dress 61 is worn by one of the elegant dancers who opted not to accept any offers. We all had a great if somewhat surreal time here.

Dress 61