27.2.11 Brisbane, Bandicoot Dreaming and Dress 67

7.2.11 Brisbane, Bandicoot dreaming and Dress 67

The Australian immigration official seemed delighted to stamp our passports and with a cheery welcome to Austrialia no worries mate, we were back in one of the friendliest laid back countries. Its nine years and one month since we were here last and the sheer open friendly courtesy of these people came rushing back.  This trip was going to be fun!

Bandicoot dreaming

Dr Garry Darby has been on board lecturing on Art, he has covered among others Gauguin, Van Gogh for the Tahiti pacific section and now has been lecturing on Aboriginal art.  The aboriginal lectures have been fascinating; he has covered the history and geographic location of the painters. He has explained the stories and beliefs behind the styles of painting and how they have in some cases become recognised in the Art world.  When Australia was first discovered there were over 350 different language groups, all with their own traditions, body painting and drawing on the ground were ways of teaching and remembering. 

Aboriginals do not have a written record of their culture, the different ‘language groups’ kept their secrets within their paintings. They were and still are nomadic. They carry with them the minimum needed for survival in a harsh climate, by painting their bodies with their secrets and drawing their maps in the ground and then scrubbing them away no energy is wasted in transporting records the information travels with them in their heads.

Bandicoot dreaming Janet Long Nakamarra

We have bought a painting by Janet Long Nakamarra called Bandicoot Dreaming.  The perspective is one of looking down as they spend all their lives looking for food, tracks and the information the ground gives them. In this painting you can see the concentric circles of either a water hole and or meeting, place the U shape is the shape a seated person would make and the small circles are fruit trees. Janet is fully literate and a teacher Linguist. She written books about the lives of the elders in her community –Warlpiri women’s Voices.  She lives and works North West of Alice Springs.  She has her work in the Art gallery of NSW, and various others across Australia and also in America. With the stories and the small about of knowledge of how to ‘read’ them we have gained we are delighted to have obtained it.

Brisbane

   

 We were only here a short time, so we concentrated on seeing some of the key sights within walking distance of the centre.  We were pleased to see that the Brisbane river has subsided and although it’s a very dark muddy colour is more or less now within its banks.  We did see a little evidence of the terrible flooding but generally everywhere looked extremely well maintained and normal. 

Dress 67

On Sunday on the southbank there is a craft fair and I was brought to a standstill by these amazing dresses made and designed by ANNA HULM.  They are made of three identical scarfs, and Dress 67 is modelled by Danielle.  I thought they were wonderful and so I bought one.

We saw most of the city from the top of the Brisbane Wheel. This was fun.

The Anzac memorial   and the eternal

Everywhere we went we saw Sacred Ibis, they wonder around just like we have pigeons.

Sacred Ibis

Sunset as we sailed up the Brisbane river

A lovely day and a wonderful long sing song round the terraces as we sailed up the Brisbane river.

It’s a steamy 29c

Sydney and Tasmania next!!.

25.2.11 Noumea and dresses to 66 and what happened to the 22nd Feb ?

25.2.11 Noumea, Grande Terre, Nouvelle Caledonie (New Caledonia) and dresses to Dress 66

……………………………and what happened to the 22^nd?

We went to bed on the 21^st and woke up on the 23^rd .

The 22^nd didn’t exist as we crossed the International Date Line.  We went to bed on the 21^st minus 11 hours GMT and woke up plus 12 hours GMT.  We lost a whole day despite for the past 12 days virtually every night putting the clock back an hour.

Anyway we arrived in Noumea safely, excited and a bit sad as this last of our Pacific Island stops.  Excited as it’s French again, we all agree that Noumea is like Nice in the Pacific, although it has the nickname ‘Paris of the Pacific’. 

There are fabulous restaurants, with great menu, every make of French car and also top end cars Porche, BMW, Lexus, Mercedes, etc.  It is quite different to the others we have seen over the past weeks.

New Caledonia

The island of Grande Terre is one of the largest in New Caledonia, so named as when Captain James Cook landed in 1774 he was reminded of the mountains in the Scottish Highlands.  In 1853 a French Admiral claimed the islands for France, - not clear what happened between these dates – and it became a French penal colony, at about the same time Nickel was discovered and so the an important industry and wealth grew. There are about 130k people on the islands and half live in Noumea. The original people who now make up about 45% of the population are Karnak. We received a warm and noisy welcome from these traditional dancers – Dress 62 traditional dancers

Traditional Melanesian dancers Dress 62

The approach to the island is through a reef and into a lagoon which was added to the UNESCO world heritage list in July 2010. As we sailed in through the lagoon, about 14 miles to get to Noumea we saw many smaller reefs and tiny islands.

The views and landscapes are lovely and picture postcard palm trees line the little very well-manicured lawns and gardens.  There are museums and a great Cathedrale - Sainte-Josephe- but we decided that a trip round the island, enjoy the scenery and a good French lunch was favourite.

The islands favourite Beer Number 1

David had read that the islands favourite beer was Beer Number 1 here’ s the bottle perhaps next time it will be around the world with 80 beers.

Dress 63 is our charming Waitress Nicole who spoke not a word of English, she thought we were Australians and was intrigued to find we had travelled so far.

Lunch at the Fun Beach Restaurant with Jerry and Lynda

Dress 63 Nicole

The island tour was fun with some real Australians who are travelling with us on the Aurora, Sandy and Ron, they discovered the joys of ‘old speckled hen’ and Magners whilst in England and are delighted they can get them both on board. Sandy is dress 64 bought in Waikiki Hawaii for $14 what a bargain, they had been to the beach swimming and the dress makes a great cover-up.  It’s been greatly admired on board.

Dress 64 Sandy from Sydney

Up by the lovely botanical gardens we stopped for two Japanese ladies from Osaka were looked lost, with the language barrier we are still not sure if they were or not.  They are Aywko Suito and Hahiro Iino they kindly wrote their names in English and Japanese and I shall keep and treasure their names as written in Japanese and the little map of Japan showing their city and the flag they drew for me.  I hope they finally got where they needed go after we left them at the port.

Dress 65 Aywko Suito and Hahiro Lino from Japan

Walking along the beach front at Baie des Citrons Lemon Bay

We saw locals playing boules and this little doll, stuck on the side of a closed frit kiosk, as every looking for dresses we all took a picture much to the amusement of the boule players dress 66 a grass skirted doll.  Why it was there is unclear as is the connection to French Fries

Dress 66 grass skirted doll

The sail across the lagoon back out to open sea was great and took well over a hour, we are now 800 miles – a day or so away from Brisbane, the Australian immigration staff are on board and we all have a face to face interview tomorrow to see if they will let us in.

21.2.11 Pago Pago and dresses to 61

21.2.11 Pago Pago & Dress to 61 

We arrived at the deep harbour of Pago Pago on the tiny island of Tutuila in America Samoa in brilliant sunshine only to be running for cover as the heavy tropical rain thundered down on the decks, within a few minutes the same decks were steaming as the sun quickly dried them. 

 The island is 14 degrees south of the equator and so we have about 12 to 14 hours daylight,

 it is well within the tropics, everywhere is a lush green, with gorgeous exotic plants, ginger plants and trees.

Samoan Shopping

Tahiti was exotic with a French twist, but these people have got it all, a riot of colours, disco music booming out, dancing round the little stalls and all a fraction of the price. We had the best of times meeting these very commercial ladies many of whom were sitting producing handmade things when not serving.  Every lady sold us something and they are holding some of the items we bought. We enjoyed our time here so much, it was national holiday there was a real family party atmosphere.  Their dresses are those they wear all the time, all the ladies were very modest, no coconuts tops here.

Dresses 54, 55, 56 Ladies of the craft market

Polynesian empire

I have to admit that until we started on this trip I know very little what had been the Polynesian empire, and all the island groupings within it. By about 1000AD the empire extended in a triangle with Hawaii in the north New Zealand in the south and Easter Island to the south east. When you think that the Pacific Ocean covers over a third of the earth’s surface and look at the distance between these islands it is even more remarkable that this vast area was under the control of one people.    

We have read all the guide books that we have with us and are hungry for more information, the names of the islands we have sailed past are so exotic and familiar and it’s a real thrill to hear the bridge advise us to ‘come up on deck and see.. The Fiji islands, Tonga, Gambier Islands……….  

Pago Pago

Back to Pago Pago this is the name of the capital and port, but it’s pronounced paNgo paNgo.  This is because when the missionaries arrived and printed the first ever book in the pacific islands they did not have a N in their printing kit.  This may sound strange but we are assured it is absolutely true and the cognoscenti always pronounce it with a N. 

The island was seceded to America in 1872.   The island is an intriguing mix of very exotic, very modest, extremely jolly and friendly people.  They wear long LayaLaya (like a pareo) and we were advised to dress modestly no short shorts, don’t stretch your feed out in front of you when sitting down and no eating in the street.   

Christianity and Samoa Culture

Sunday is strictly observed, they bury their dead in their gardens so they are near to the family, which seems a bit strange. But when we saw the mini graveyards and headstones all neatly tended with flowers and wreaths some with little roofs over it we could see that they truly believe their departed are still there with them.  During our all too brief visit there appears a balance between traditional culture and Christianity. 

They live in extended family groups with a guest or first house in each settlement, which is used for ceremonies, receiving guests, and sleeping in when the weather is too hot. We were treated to a formal ceremony and dances. We were invited to try the local kava (non-alcoholic traditional drink) which is apparently good for everything from aching joints, to lowering cholesterol.

Dress 57 lead dancers - Mallory - the dress is made of tapa cloth and dress 58 Cathie in traditional layalaya

Me with some of the dancers,

Traditional transport

This bus says it all about this island, the buses have no windows or doors and are real bone shakers, but they decorate them with fresh flowers and insist, absolutely insist, that you sing along is Samoan, British reserve was just not acceptable as we bounced and bumped along the roads.

Samoan Tour Guides

They are irresistible with their charm and joy.  On our little bus we had two and two trainees.  Quite how we all fitted in to the little bus I’m not sure but we did and it was a great day. The two main guides were Tila Dress 59 and Tommy.  Tommy is here with the trainees and the shy little trainees, Marion has the most incredible hair and is dress 60

Dress  59 Tila

 Dress 60 Tommy and the Trainees

 American influence

Big four wheel cars everywhere, the island is has very steep hills and very large people so these America vehicles are popular.

David with car

The only Golf course in Samoa and lunchtime disco

For some reason we ended up at the golf course and there was the equivalent of a very noisy disco great fun, the Samoan men scream somewhat disconcertingly throughout and the ladies sway elegantly, the men then throw themselves on the floor and if the lady is interested she puts her foot on his back. Dress 61 is worn by one of the elegant dancers who opted not to accept any offers. We all had a great if somewhat surreal time here.

  Dress 61

Jerry and Lynda

 We were very sad to leave the people of pago pago and the ships horn blew and blew to get everyone away from the little town and back on board